Touring the Southern Okanagan
“Desert Trails” | Spring, Summer, or Fall | Five Day Road Trip
Blasted Church Winery
“WAY”, welcome (nsyilxcen) to the unceded territory of the Syilx Okanagan People. Give yourself five days to experience this whimsical road trip that begins at the northernmost tip of the Great Desert Basin before passing through sacred Indigenous lands, protected parks and four distinct viticultural regions.
The legends of the southern Okanagan are bound in history and steeped in nostalgia. This is cabin country, where one feasts on fresh fruits from roadside markets as they explore miles upon golden miles of sun-kissed benches and rolling vineyards.
A traveller is one who “immerses themself in the places they visit.” Responsible travellers plan, choosing experiences that leave a small ecological footprint. Our road trips are packed full of culture, and we encourage you to stop in rural or Indigenous communities, stay in locally run accommodations, eat and sip at small shops, and buy from local artisans.
Our trips are all connected, but you can experience them independently or combine to create the adventure of a lifetime. The Okanagan is our home, and there are many bonus blogs on the website that will assist you in further customizing your stay.
Lim ‘limpt (thank you).
The Vagabonds.
Okanagan Falls
1 day
The subtle nuances of Canada's only desert reveal themselves in the radiant heat of the southern sun, the unfettered glow of starlit nights, and distinct landmarks like nʕaylintn (McIntyre Bluff). Rising boldly from the narrowest section of the Okanagan Valley, the iconic site is a large ridge of gneiss rock located south of Vaseux Lake. Known as Indian Head, the two billion-year-old bluff tells the story of the Okanagan/Syilx through the interpretation of century-old pictographs preserved along their ancestral trails.
OK Falls (Okanagan Falls) is located north of the bluff on the south shore of Skaha Lake. The lake is renowned for its wind and kite surfing, moderate water temperature, and soft sand beaches. Christie Memorial Park is the largest and most popular of the town’s beaches featuring a long stretch of soft sand, volleyball courts, change room facilities, and plenty of places to picnic in the shade. A highlight of any visit to the park is found on the corner of 7th Avenue and Cedar Street. With arms outstretched in a gesture of gratitude, the “Salmon Chief”, an honorary statue, is more a nod to the future than a reconciliation of the past. It was created by Smoker Marchant, a celebrated Indigenous artist and residential school survivor from the Colville Indian Band.
sx̌ʷəx̌ʷnitkʷ (Okanagan Falls) Provincial Park means "little falls" in nqilxʷcən/nsyilxcən and signifies a connection to the historic Kettle Falls in Washington state. The nqilxʷcən/nsyilxcən place name for Kettle Falls is sx̌ʷnitkʷ or “big falls.” Combined, these falls were two of the most important fishing sites in the Okanagan Nation’s traditional territory before First Contact.
Each September, the Okanagan Nations Alliance host Salmon Feast in the park. A three-day event, festivities include a traditional canoe paddle, trail walking, cultural tournaments, and performances culminating in a salmon feast honouring snxa?l’iwlem (the sacred relationship between the people and water). There are just eleven campsites in the park; make sure to reserve ahead to secure a spot.
Okanagan River
OK Falls is an unpretentious hamlet surrounded by sweeping vineyards, cycling paths, and the Okanagan River. Complete with a spattering of service shops, it’s also home to Tickleberry’s; a cool ice cream parlour and decadent handmade candy store with a shaded picnic area.
If you’re looking for a healthier alternative, there are several winery EAT options nearby including Smoke and Oak Bistro at Wild Goose Winery. We love BBQ and this local offering doesn't disappoint. The watermelon salad is as refreshing as the Rangeland bison burger is filling, and their wines are elegant and honest. The Gamay Noir is a good representation of the local terroir, check ahead to make sure the seasonal bistro is open.
Stags Hollow Winery, neighbouring Wild Goose on Corkscrew Drive, is a quaint family-owned tasting room and vineyard with fragrant cottage-style gardens. We enjoy the flirty traits of their lighter wines which contrast the bold characteristics of their small-batch European style reds. Our favourites are the Orange Orange, a delicate Muscat-based blend, and the Teroldego, an earthy botanically influenced red wine with a unique depth of colour.
You'll find Blasted Church Vineyards on the Drive. We love their sassy story and cheeky wine labels. It's a little off the beaten path but well worth the extra time it takes to visit, taste the wine, and hear their tale. We enjoy their OMG bubbles and postcard-perfect views, both refreshing reprieves on a hot Okanagan day.
If you’re looking for al fresco EATS, check out See Ya Later Ranch, a dog-friendly high altitude winery with a delightful restaurant and patio. Located on top of Hawthorne Mountain, the views are panoramic with a vignette of Skaha Lake in the distance. Try Majors Block - a spicy red blend at a distinctly fair price. OK Falls wineries craft notoriously delicious whites, and See Ya Later Ranch makes a great Gewurztraminer with lychee and melon influences.
See Ya Later Ranch - Okanagan Valley Vagabonds
There are a handful of campgrounds and an abundance of hiking and cycling trails in the area including the Kettle Valley Railway. The path around OK Falls is a lesser-known section of the trail that connects Midway to Hope. Start your walk or cycle at the Train Bridge, a favourite spot to jump into the refreshing waters of Skaha Lake. The trail follows the shoreline along the west side of the lake travelling thirteen kilometres north to Penticton and onto Kelowna, Lake Country, and Vernon.
The landscape in the south valley is a juxtaposition of cultivated farmland and raw natural spaces - the kind that inspire artists and vagabonds. A stop into Covert Family Farms - a regenerative organic operation - is always a treat. There are amazing views of the vineyards and surrounding landscape from McIntyre Bluff, which is accessible from the farm. Hike or mountain bike to the top ledge which drops three-hundred metres down a sheer rock cliff to the valley floor.
OK Falls landscape
There is no doubt that life in this northern desert exists in a delicate balance between agriculture and preservation, making it increasingly important to carefully choose what you use on your skin. The lakes and waterways in the area are fragile, with the Okanagan River being one of the ten most endangered in BC.
If you want to spend time immersing yourself in the unique characteristics of the local wetlands, book a stay at Vaseux Lake Resort. The pace is slower; motorized vehicles are not allowed on the lake but there are plenty of spots to paddle or just float.
One of our commitments to preservation is our Responsible Travel Boxes - a consciously curated collection of items you need to travel well. Our boxes support local independent businesses, allowing you to invest in the wellbeing of your host community while protecting the planet.
Credit: Vaseux Lake Resort Vacation Rentals- OK Falls/Oliver
Oliver
2 days
A few minutes south of OK Falls is Oliver, a small town with a big claim to fame. Known as the Wine Capital of Canada, this area is home to over forty wineries and grows over half of BC’s vines.
As you head south on Highway 97 from OK Falls to Oliver, you’ll find the shores of beautiful Vaseux Lake, a quiet little piece of paradise designated as an Important Bird Area (IBA).
Paddle the calm waters, which are so clear you can spot fish near the bottom - or stroll the boardwalk to take in the riparian views or birdwatch. If you're paddling, be sure to head to the south shore where two protected lagoons provide refuge to seven blue and two red-listed mammals that reside in the park - which is also home to California bighorn sheep and mountain goat. There are a few sandy beaches on the lake, perfect for a picnic. This is a seasonal fishing spot; make sure to purchase your license.
Dubh Glas Distillery and Covert Farm
There is a twelve-site first come/first served campground beside the highway (although it’s a bit noisy). Just five minutes further south on Highway 97 is Dubh Glas Distillery - award winning whisky and gin distillers. (If you’re travelling in an electric vehicle, you can recharge here.) We sometimes stop to restock our cache of Noteworthy Gin, a handcrafted small-batch offering made from 100% BC-grown barley.
Over one-hundred pictograph sites have been identified in the Okanagan and Similkameen regions. These sites are sacred, providing a spiritual connection and sense of place for the area’s Indigenous people. Created with red iron oxide paint known as ochre, the images remain visible after hundreds of years. Remnants of pictographs can be seen in and around Vaseux Lake and McIntyre Bluff - please look but do not touch.
Horse back riding: Indigenous Tourism BC/Indian Grover Riding Stables
The Okanagan/Syilx were semi-nomadic hunters and gatherers who seeded small swatches of land, raising cattle and wild horses while trading goods with local and Interior Salish tribes for sustenance. When gold was discovered around Oliver, and further north in the Caribou, gold panners, merchants, and trade scouts arrived transporting supplies along Indigenous trade routes on the trail referred to as the Fur Trade Brigade or Nkwala’s Trail.
"Indian Reservations" were established in 1887, making way for a robust railway system and European settlement. In the 1890s, the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) extended their service to the South Okanagan, travelling by sternwheeler ships to Penticton. The Great Northern Railroad (CNR) ran from Spokane through Oroville in the US before reaching Keremeos in 1907. With the Kettle Valley Railway (KVR) in construction between 1910 and 1916, the race of the rails was full steam ahead with over 500 kilometres of track dramatically routed through three mountain ranges.
With the influx of European settlers came an increased demand for produce, lumber, and land. Waterways were dammed and diverted, habitat destroyed, and Residential Schools were established to assimilate the children of the Okanagan/Syilx. These were dark times as children were taken from their families and transported far from their people, culture, and home to schools where they were forced to adopt Christianity and abandon their native tongue.
In 1989, the last freight train rode the rails making way for the iconic trail system that now connects the Okanagan to the "Great Trail" of Canada. In 1995 the last Residential School in Canada closed and the long and arduous Road to Reconciliation began. Drop by the local Visitor Centre to pick up a map that will take you on a self-guided tour through the Oliver Heritage Walk. Be sure to check out the 1946 Oliver Theatre, the 1937 Oliver Chronicle Building, and the 1912 Oliver Hotel - simple but significant landmarks.
There are some great EATS along the way, including Auntie Ag's Seafood Cafe for chowder, fresh coleslaw, and perfectly prepared fish. Hammers House of Hog serves a pulled pork sandwich that pairs perfectly with a local brew. For something lighter stop into one of the winery bistros or a local fruit stand to grab items for a charcuterie style picnic. The Oliver Garden and Fruit Market is an excellent choice for fresh fare and preserves, as well as Oliver Eats Ltd. - a deli/bistro offering a good selection of sandwiches, seasonal salads, delectable cheeses, and tasty desserts.
Many of our favourite wineries are found in and around Oliver. Following are some of our suggestions, but be sure to visit the South Okanagan SIPS section of our site for a more extensive list.
Summer Lunch on the Patio: Indigenous Tourism BC/The Bear, The Fish, The Root & The Berry
Burrowing Owl Winery is committed to environmental preservation and restoration. More than nine-hundred bluebird boxes and two bat nurseries provide natural insect control. Solar panels are used to harness the powerful rays of the desert sun with the winery playing an instrumental role in repopulating the endangered burrowing owl population in BC. We are partial to their reds, which are full-bodied and true to the terroir of the land. We particularly enjoy their Meritage, the leather and lace representation of Okanagan reds, offering a bramble of spice and tobacco that lingers on the palette.
Phantom Creek Winery Oliver: Destination BC/Hubert Kang
Phantom Creek Estates is a must-stop. Known for its artistic beauty and exquisite reds, the winery is transitioning to organic and biodynamic certification. The vineyard pathway follows the flow of an ancient dry creek that runs beneath the estate. Leading to the tasting room, it travels past a pair of sculpted angels that pay homage to the spirit of Mother Nature and the winery’s mission to be guardians of her generosity. We are huge fans of the Becker Vineyard Cuvée…a fine example of south Okanagan terroir. Book your tasting ahead of your arrival.
If you’re looking for a fun stop with easy-sipping wines, a visit to Nostalgia Wines, formerly known as Oliver Twist, fits the bill. With a vintage vibe and kitschy atmosphere, it’s best known for its Kerner, but we also love the NOSTALGIA series and Rockabilly Red - a light ode to pin-up girls and summer road trips. Take a walk down memory lane as you explore the memorabilia collection inside the wine shop and hear stories about the history of the valley and land.
There are is a large selection of EAT, SIP, and PLAY destinations on our website, visit the south Okanagan section to further customize your road trip. Check out other Okanagan road trips to extend your stay or expand your adventure.
Fun Facts:
In 1990, the world’s largest cherry pie was baked in Oliver. Weighing in at almost 18,000 kilograms, it made it into the Guinness Book of World Records.Osoyoos
2 days
Osoyoos is “Canada's Desert” and home to the beautiful Okanagan Lake - the warmest lake in the country. It’s also the southernmost town in the Okanagan Valley before crossing the border into Washington State.
Perched high above Osoyoos, Mount Kobau offers a bird’s-eye view of the Okanagan and Similkameen Valley. Visitors can see where the Great Basin Desert splits into two separate arms, both stretching north in silvery ribbons of sagebrush and bunchgrasses cradled by unique mountain ranges. Looking south to the border, soaring summits rise high above the valley below. This is one of the most dramatic vistas in Cascadia.
There are several trails on the mountain including loops that lead visitors through a Dark Sky Preserve, home to the Dominion Radio Astrophysical Observatory. You can take a self-guided tour during the day or pack in a camping chair to view the desert sky at night. The Kobau Lookout Forest Service Road is accessed off Highway 3 and takes you most of the way to the summit - where the North Cascades, the Kettle River Range, and the Monashee Mountains are picture perfect accents to the desert landscape.
Parks Canada has been working with the Okanagan/Syilx and local business owners to designate the area a national park. With the loss of natural habitat to development and commercialization, the designation will ensure the viability of the desert for generations to come.
Spotted Lake, at the foot of the mountain below Richter Pass, is a saline endorheic alkali lake and majestic anomaly. Referred to as Lake Kliluk by the Indigenous people of the area, the lake’s waters are said to possess healing powers that change with the seasons - being most intense during the summer months. To experience a cultural tour of the lake, contact NK’MIP Desert Cultural Centre and an accredited Indigenous guide will take you onto the private property.
Anarchist Mountain Lookout
If you don’t have extra time but want to experience a magnificent view of Okanagan Lake and the valley, Anarchist Mountain Lookout is just east of Osoyoos on Highway 3. A part of the Monashee Mountain Range, the peak is located in a low-elevation protected forest with the viewpoint providing a spectacular vista of Osoyoos and surrounding valley…as well as a clear view across the border to Oroville.
Be sure to check out the Osoyoos sand dunes on the outskirts of town via a short hike through Nk’MIp Campgrounds. This is a perfect lakeside walk and takes only 30 minutes, but be sure to bring sunscreen, flip-flops, and loads of water. It gets incredibly hot in the summer months, so you’ll probably want to go for a dip.
The NK’MIP Desert Cultural Centre is one of the best ways to experience the nuances of the desert and learn about the rich Indigenous culture of the area. Owned and operated by the Osoyoos Indian Band, the site is a state of the art interpretive centre and architectural marvel - consciously constructed into a hillside on the desert landscape. A stay at the Spirit Ridge Resort, walking the dunes, and exploring the Cultural Centre is only complete with dinner and wine at the NK'MIP Cellars and patio restaurant.
For us, time spent at the resort is always revitalizing and we leave feeling refreshed. We usually stay in the shoulder season when the rates are reduced. The units have kitchen facilities so you can shop local and offset costs. But be sure to book ahead so you don't miss out on this Vagabond Pick!
Before retiring to our room, we always stop for a tasting or a bottle of wine. NK'MIP Cellars is the first Indigenous-owned winery in the Okanagan and takes great pride in sharing the rich terroir of the desert soil through their wines. We love the Talon, named for the mythical Thunderbird. You can taste heat on this wine that exhibits a balanced representation of raspberry, blueberry, anise, pepper, and a hint of chocolate. Plus, at $25 a bottle it’s a great value blend!
Moon Curser Vineyards and Restaurant at Watermark
For us, no trip to Osoyoos is complete without a visit to Moon Curser Vineyards on the East Bench close to NK'MIP. We love this small boutique winery with a big attitude and bolder wine. Having a weakness for a full-bodied Carménère, Tempranillo or Petit Verdot, all of their examples are pretty incredible - but the Tempranillo possesses the right mix of vivacious, flirty, and free attitude to steal a Vagabonds heart.
A stop at Tinhorn Creek Vineyards is always a treat. This winery has gone to great lengths to preserve the natural areas around the vineyards, ensuring survival of vital species. Stop at a local market to pick out pairings to enjoy with their Syrah, or grab a table at Miradoro for open-fire Neapolitan style pizza accompanied by panoramic views of the valley.
Dining at Tinhorn Creek: Destination BC/Joann Pai
Another exceptional experience is Terrafina at Hester Creek by RauDZ. Chef Rod Butters is a pioneer of the 'eat local' movement creating exquisite plates with locally sourced ingredients. Meaning “from the earth”, Terrafina has a warm Tuscan influence that befits the setting and romantic mood of the vineyard. With old-world vines planted in 1968, we enjoy their Trebbiano, a unique white wine with refreshing hints of citrus and honey (unusual in composition) but perfect to pair with the Mediterranean-influenced foods.
While the area’s many wineries and hiking trails are spectacular, Osoyoos and Okanagan Lake are local highlights. A great introduction to the village includes a stroll on the Pioneer Walkway and Veterans Memorial, which takes you past the Watermark Beach Resort Hotel - one of our favourite stops for a night. The meandering path travels through grasslands skirting alongside a soft sand beach with plenty of places to park for the day. There are postcard-perfect views of Osoyoos Lake with Anarchist Mountain providing a dramatic backdrop. This scenic loop delivers you to Gyro Osoyoos Park, a lovely beach with great amenities conveniently close to Main Street.
On the east side of the lake is Cottonwood Beach, excellent for families with small children. This beach is shallow far into the lake and offers good morning shade and bathroom facilities. Legion or Safari Beach is less busy, making it the perfect place to set up for the day.
Island View RV Park has a nice shallow beach for those looking to stay a few days. There are kayak and paddleboard rentals as well as an ice cream shop on the site.
Osoyoos Lake and The Watermark Beach Resort
Just outside of town in a yellow warehouse, you'll find the award-winning Osoyoos Desert Model Railway. With 380 square metres of trains traveling on 2 kilometres of tracks, weaving through mountains and towns, this is a world-class attraction.
If you're looking for speed stop, Area 27 is a driving-enthusiast’s dream. It includes a state-of-the-art road circuit that offers the option to showcase vehicles on all terrain on an off-road course. There are private rentals available but we prefer to view.
Before leaving the area make sure to save time and room for a visit to The Bear, The Root, The Fish & The Berry, an Indigenous owned restaurant celebrating the Four Food Chiefs of the Okanagan/Syilx. We believe life is better when you experience the authentic culture of your destination and this stop is committed to representing. Listening to the stories, legends and historic moments that define the people who call the places we visit home is how we create memorable moments. There are few places on the planet where preservation and consideration are more critical than in the south Okanagan Valley making responsible travel an important part of the tourism model.
Fun Facts:
April 2021. It’s believed a TV pilot, fronted by Kevin Costner’s production company is currently filming in "Skaha Bluffs", sources say the series is going to be pitched to Disney and is called "National Parks". Meanwhile, filming is going on all over the southern Okanagan for the filming of "Secrets of a Marine’s Wife" which is shooting in Osoyoos, Cawston, and Oliver.In the Winter:
Winter wine tours
Places to Stay:
sx̌ʷəx̌ʷnitkʷ (Okanagan Falls) Provincial Park OK Falls/Oliver
Vaseux Lake Resort Vacation Rentals OK Falls/Oliver
Vaseux Lake Provincial Park Campground OK Falls/Oliver
Maple Leaf Motel Inn Towne Oliver
NK’MIP RV Campground Osoyoos
Spirit Ridge Resort Osoyoos
Watermark Beach Resort Osoyoos
Book Different Always a good choice
Where to Eat:
Restaurants noted in the road trip blog
Restaurants in the SIPS South Okanagan section of the website
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